In 2014 we took a bus tour with the Robson Road Runners to visit some of the older US National Parks.
Days 1 & 2
Well, we’re off to see some National Parks by bus. We flew up to Rapid City, South Dakota yesterday and will get on the bus to see Mount Rushmore in the morning. Rapid City is roughly equal distance from Mount Rushmore and Sturgis. (I’m glad we’re here in September and not August.)
Some of you may remember that Tammy tried to kill me in New Zealand. Well, I have waited a long time to get even with her, and this may be my chance. Yesterday I convinced her to walk into town to check out the square and an evening artist show. It was only a couple of blocks on the map. We spent a couple of hours walking around town. There are a bunch of artist shops and bars in town. The town square is pretty neat with a fountain to play in if you so desire ( Tammy said no).
They have taken Mount Rushmore to the next level. On every corner in down town, they have placed a life sized bronze statue of one of the Presidents. They are not going to be limited to four. Some of the statues are pretty good. Tammy had to check to see if Clinton’s fly was up or down, and we enjoyed seeing Jimmy Carter in plaid pants. I’ve attached a picture of Tammy with JFK. Yes, you will notice that Tammy is wearing a coat. It was around 55 yesterday and 60 today with a 15 knot breeze from the North. Tammy had to go buy wool socks and ear muffs!!!
By the time we got back to the hotel she was making funny noises and claiming her feet were going to kill her. Ha….. the trip has just begun.
Day 3 – Badlands and Custer State Park
As you might guess from the title, we had two stops today.
The Badlands are unique, and you can really see why people would call them “bad” lands if you wanted to farm or even get across on a wagon. What I didn’t know was that the area Indians considered them as sacred grounds.
Custer State Park, along with nearly everything else in this area, is named after the Custer that would later make himself famous at Little Big Horn. The park is located in the Black Hills, which made for some really nice scenic views. The highlight of the day was a Jeep tour of the local wildlife. We got to see Buffalo, Prong Horn, White Tail Deer, Elk, Prairie Dogs, Begging Burros, and probably something I’m forgetting. All of the animals are native except the Burros. The Burros are tame and used to being fed from the cars, hence the name. Tammy volunteered that they have soft noses.
I mentioned that I’m getting even with Tammy for past crimes. Today I attempted to freeze her. The Jeep tour was in open limo Jeeps and started about 3:30 in the afternoon. The temperature was in the low 50’s, and after a couple of hours she was suitable chilled. The tour included an outdoor chuck wagon meal and local singer. After dinner I lost Tammy. When I found her, she was standing by the grill trying to warm her hands. Within a few minutes 10 other women from our group had the same idea. I’ve attached a picture of Tammy at dinner. How many of you remember seeing Tammy in a coat and scarf?
The internet connection is horrible here, so I’ll send pictures in a separate email (I doubt you’ll get it.).
Day 4 – Mammoths and a Really Big Indian
We started off with a tour of a private facility for studying a site with an amazing collection of Mammoth bones (bones not fossils). It seems this area has an underlying limestone layer that forms caverns. This particular cavern collapsed into a sink hole then a warm water spring filled it. The warm water attracted animals in the winter, and some fell in. The sides were a material that got slick when wet. The result was mammoths getting stuck and drowning or getting stuck in the mud. The sink hole gradually silted in covering the bones. As it filled up, more mammoths stomped around in the mud densely compacting the lower levels. Once it was filled the material in the hole was more resistant to erosion than the surrounding land. Therefore, today the sink hole is a hill. The bones were discovered while clearing land for homes. The developer recognized the significance and ended up selling the land to a foundation put together to develop the site. The dig is covered by a building, and they are leaving the bones in place as they are found. So far, they dug down about 25 feet with another 40 to go.
One odd fact about the mammoth site is that all the animals found so far are young males. Elephants have a matriarchal society, so they assume mammoths did also. The younger males would be on their own and more likely to be looking for an easy meal around a warm water hole. At least that’s the assumption.
Next we were off to see Crazy Horse. We had about an hour bus ride, and I’m seeing a pattern. Tammy is not getting her mid day naps on this trip. As soon as the bus starts moving, she falls asleep. Every time she falls asleep, the tour guide starts talking and wakes Tammy up. This is getting good. On this leg of the trip the driver was having trouble getting the A/C to work, but it was in the low 60’s outside, so it wasn’t a big deal.
Won’t go into all the history, but Crazy Horse is going to be much cooler than Mount Rushmore. They’ve been working on it since 1948, and there is a face. Now this is a really big face. It seems all four heads on Mount Rushmore will fit on Crazy Horse’s head. Remember, Crazy Horse will be sitting on a horse, so the scale is hard to fathom.
The original sculptor worked alone for years. He had 10 children and 7 of them chose to make the statue their life. They’ve built up a pretty good business showing it to tourists to help fund the ongoing work. I’ll be interested to see how it goes after the second generation dies out. They are working on the horse head now, and it will be years before they get it done.
When we got back in the bus, it became obvious the driver wasn’t able to resolve the A/C issue. I feel sorry for him, because after he dropped us off, he headed to Rapid City to find a mechanic. The temperature will be about 10 degrees higher tomorrow, so we’re all hoping they get it resolved.
Day 5 – Mount Rushmore and Deadwood
Good news, they got the bus fixed overnight. They did not want to deal with all the Robson ladies on a hot bus.
The first stop today was Mount Rushmore, or as David Cobb calls it, “Big Head Park.” Here’s a fun side note. In the original dedication, the site was to be free forever. Technically, I did not pay an admission fee. However, it was $50 to park the bus. I think cars were $10.
In the planning of this trip Mount Rushmore was the one place on my bucket list, and it did not disappoint. The art is amazing and the presentation is excellent. Everyone has seen the pictures, but I was still impressed. I also kept thinking that all 4 presidents would fit on the side of Crazy Horse’s head.
Deadwood was the next stop. In case you’ve forgotten, Deadwood is where Wild Bill was shot and killed. Today, Deadwood has three reasons for existence. The first is legal gambling brought in to keep the town from dying after the gold mine closed. At least half the buildings in town contain slot machines, and there are plenty that also have table games. The second reason is to sell Wild Bill and Sturgis tee-shirts. There is even a Harley dealer selling “Deadwood Harley” shirts and gear. (I did not see any motorcycles at the “dealership”.) The third reason is that it makes a good pee break on the bus trip. Actually, we had a good time in Deadwood. They put us on a local bus tour, and the driver was a real hoot.
We are staying in a beautiful canyon resort outside of Deadwood called the Spearfish Canyon Lodge. It is the nicest place we’ve been so far. They even have pillow-top mattresses!!
Tomorrow is a long driving day. We’re headed to Cody Wy. But we stop somewhere for lunch and get to go horse back riding. I’ll let you know tomorrow how that goes.
Day 6 – Drive to Cody
Last night we stayed at the Spearfish Canyon Lodge. It was quite a place. I was reading and found a party they throw at Halloween. It is a two day Ladies only pajama party. Tammy was looking to make reservations. Then I found the note that they are in the Guiness Book of records for the greatest temperature variance. On January 22, 1943 the temperature went up from 4 degrees F to 49 degrees F in two minutes. Then it dropped from 55 to -5. Fifteen minutes later, it was 55 again. With Tammy’s limited temperature tolerance, this may not be her spot in the colder weather.
This was the longest travel day as we head for Yellowstone. I think it was right at 400 miles. Fortunately the speed limits are more than 55 up here, so we’re in the hotel at 6pm.
The highlight of the day was our stop for lunch at a dude ranch. The food was OK, but we had the opportunity to take about a 20 minute horse ride. Tammy rode a horse!!!! Years ago we took a horse ride in Big Bend, and Tammy said she’d never do it again. I think when the guy on the walker signed up, she had no choice. It was a simple single file ride, but Tammy couldn’t follow the rules and passed the horse in front of her.
We drove through some fascinating county and got a lot of local history at the same time. They played two videos. One was on Custer getting wiped out, and one was on Buffalo Bill Cody. The Custer video included a lot of first hand accounts (mostly Indian).
Well, by the end of the day we all had a bad case of Bus Butt. Then the bad news was that our hotel was a little out of town and did not have a place to eat. The organized solution was to make a bus run back to town to drop people off. Then the hotel had a shuttle that would pick you up. A group of us decided on Pizza delivery. There was an outside sitting area with a fire pit, and we were having a fine time. Then we discovered that the hotel offered kits to make Smores. Now Tammy was really happy.
The one bad thing about this hotel is in the bath room. Every room includes a scale. With all the eating we’ve been doing no one has been brave enough to step on the scale.
We’re spending the next two days in Yellowstone, so I’m looking forward to more wildlife and the thermal activity. The guide has warned us that we won’t have internet at the next two hotels in the park, so you may not hear from me until we get to Jackson.
Day 7 – Museums
We started today with a trip to the museums in Cody. They have a complex with 5 museums (Buffalo Bill, Plains Indians, Art, Firearms, and Natural History). Last night we met two ladies at the fire pit that had driven up from Salt Lake City to spend a couple of days at the museums. That’s a good indication that the museums were worth seeing. Our problem was that we only had two hours. Normally two hours is all I can stand at a museum, but which one? It was easy to eliminate the Art and Natural History. Then the choices began. As we unloaded Tammy decided she wanted to see the Art museum (so much for my plans). Fortunately the Art museum wasn’t tremendous. It did have some old works from the mid 1800’s that were interesting. Remember before photography drawings were how people got to see the West.
Next we hit the Plains Indian museum. This was much better. It had a mixture of common and ceremonial pieces. The craftsmanship was outstanding, even on the common pieces of clothing. They had a explanation of what was involved in tanning a buffalo hide. I think I’ll buy my leather clothing.
With less than an hour to go we found the coffee bar and got a hot chocolate. Tammy was done. With a little time left I headed for the Firearms museum. Holy smoke. Any gun person could spend days here. They had a section on the development of firing mechanisms. They had a section on the history of hunting guns. Then there was the military section. Then there were separate sections for the history of each major US manufacturer. My alarm went off telling me to head for the bus, and I hadn’t begun to scratch the surface. There was a exhibit on loan from the Smithsonian down stairs that I never even peeked at.
Our next stop was downtown Cody. We had about an hour for lunch. It was a little early, but the guide wanted to do the Northeast entrance to Yellowstone which would take a little longer. I want you all to make a note of September 18, 2014. That was the day Tammy walked past two ice cream parlors and said she wasn’t hungry. In case you haven’t noted, we have been eating on this trip. Every time we turn around there is another free meal with excellent food. It’s not easy to turn down free food. If it also happens to be top notch, then we just surrender. While our guide was telling us about how the buffalo are in the process of packing on the fat for winter, the ladies decided that’s what we’re doing on this trip, unfortunately, we have to take it back off!!
The Northeast entry into Yellowstone is the least used, and it is spectacular. It was overcast so the pictures won’t begin to do it justice. There are huge peaks that were thrust up during the last eruption. Then you get into the actual cauldron and have all the basalt formations. Then the wide glacier shaped valley.
We are staying at Mammoth Lodge tonight. The buildings are from the original Fort Yellowstone, and there is a resident Elk herd that makes itself at home on the lawn. The Park Rangers are out to remind you that we are at the end of the Rut season, so they could still be a little unpredictable. We saw one Bull Elk that would make any trophy hunter green with envy.
I had a little time, so I headed for a walk up Mammoth Hot Springs while Tammy tested the beds. In this case mammoth means really big and I didn’t make it to the top.
There is no internet at this hotel, so I’m going to try sending today’s note using my phone as a hot spot. Those of us with Verizon have 3 or 4 bars. People with other carriers have 0. It’s fun when technology works. We’re heading for Old Faithful tomorrow.
Day 8 – Old Faithful
We had a late departure (bags at 8am and bus at 9am). This was welcomed after the major meal we had last night. Our meal coupon included an appetizer, salad, entree and desert. We knew we were in trouble when each appetizer was large enough to feed the table of 6. Everyone kept saying “save room for desert.” That was tough, since the food was excellent. We broke down and shared deserts.
The day was mostly clear to contrast with the clouds we had yesterday, so the scenery was the same only different. We started with a short drive to the top on Mammoth Hot Springs to see what I gave up on yesterday. Then it was back down the same way we came in. It seems they are replacing a bridge on the Western Loop, so we had to back track a few miles. Our guide claimed he would most often do the back track anyway, because it ends up being more scenic. The road was up and over Dunraven Pass.
We stopped at a visitor center that has a good exhibit on the volcanic activity. Just be ready. The last eruption dumped ash past Amarillo. The eruption before that put ash into the middle of Louisiana. It goes off about every 600,000 years and the last one was 640,000 years ago. If it goes off in the next couple of days, you probably won;t be getting any more emails from me.
We got to Old Faithful at 1pm with the next eruption scheduled for 2:05. We took the guides advice and headed over to the cafeteria. (We just got off the bus, of course we have to eat.) We found a table with a view and settled down. Boy did we feel decadent. With the next eruption scheduled for 3:45, we had a little time to explore. I did manage to get Tammy out to the board walk in time to claim a front row seat. That was cool. Then are rooms were ready, and Tammy headed up to get some horizontal time. The first thing we discovered was that our room overlooks Old Faithful. On my two previous trips, I’ve only seen it erupt once per trip. I think I’ll see a few more this time, and I’m looking forward to seeing it at night.
Dinner was at 7pm, so I drug Tammy out of bed at 6:30 with a promise of a drink on the balcony. We found some good seats at settled in to enjoy the evening. Later I noticed that the benches were filling around Old Faithful, so we started wondering when the next eruption would be. Our timing was perfect. We finished our drinks just as the eruption started, and my alarm for dinner went off just as the eruption was finishing.
Life doesn’t get much better. Eat, bus, eat, bus, eat, sleep, repeat. We understand the rhythm and are ready for another day.
Day 9 – Grand Tetons
Today we took a last loop through Yellowstone and headed into the Grand Tetons. Our trip of the big things now includes the “Big Boobs.” Apparently the early French trappers were out here too long and thought the mountains looked like big tits.
The weather couldn’t be better with sunny sky and near perfect temperature. We stopped at several spots to view the different thermal features and scenic overlooks. As we got lower in altitude we began to pick up more Aspen trees, and they were already changing color. Then is the lower ranges the Cotton Woods were also changing to brilliant shades of yellow.
We stopped for lunch at a place with a great view of the Tetons. I’ve got a picture of Tammy soaking up the sun. This may be our last cool day and we expect a little higher temps in Jackson. However, I think we’re still over 6,000 feet, so I’m not too worried yet.
We’re spending two nights here in Jackson at the Rustic Inn. Let’s just say it is not rustic. Our room has its own fireplace, and we’re within an easy walk of the town center. Our first evening we had drinks in the Cowboy Bar followed by a Milk Shake.
In the morning we have a raft trip planned. I’ve been promised smoooth water with 30’s. The purpose is supposed to be wildlife spotting. If I see rapids, Tammy is in big trouble.
Day 10 – Jackson
Today was our day of rest. We strolled down to breakfast around 8 am, and the bus for the float trip didn’t come until 10 am, which was the first good thing about the float trip. The second thing was the great weather, and the third was the chance to see more wildlife that does not live in Texas. We saw bald eagles (7 or 8), osprey, otters, and lots of beaver evidence. Then we were back at the Inn by 1 pm giving us more time to do even less.
Of course that called for more food, so we strolled about a block to a local deli. After lunch we headed up to the scenic overlook behind the Inn for some relaxing. About 4 pm Tammy decided it was nap time, so I headed out for a quick walk around town.
About 6 pm we headed out to find more food and ran into several other couples from our group with the same idea. We had a good evening and were back in the room by 8 pm. (Robson folks are not known for staying up late.)
Tomorrow is our last bus day as we head to Salt Lake City.
Day 11 – Last Bus Ride
I think we did three states today (Wyoming, Idaho, Utah), and we still had time to walk to do a little site seeing before diner. Did I mention we got to eat some more today?
At this point we are going into scenic overload, but it was interesting to see the changes as we headed south and down in altitude. Around Jackson all of the Aspens and Cotton Wood trees were brilliant yellows and golds. As we got a little lower they were in the process of changing. However, getting lower also picked up some Maple trees that were bright reds. Then by the time e made it to Salt Lake City the jackets were off and the temperature was back in the 70’s.
We got a quick stop at the Mormon square. I had always heard of the Tabernacle and Temple, but the grounds around them are the big attraction. They have gardens that are just solid masses of colors. Then we were off to the hotel for a quick rest and our last meal.
Most everyone else flies out tomorrow morning, but we’re staying over for another day to take in the Salt Lake City sites. We don’t have to have the bags out by 7am, and we can sleep as late as we want. It’s like having a vacation day on your vacation.
Day 12 & 13 – Salt Lake City
Our bus trip ended in Salt Lake City. We had about an hour to look around the Mormon Temple Square before we checked into our hotel. Of course there was the going away diner and buffet breakfast to make sure we weren’t hungry. Most of our fellow passengers left Tuesday morning for the flight home. However, Tammy and I had booked the hotel for another day to allow a little more time to see Salt Lake City.
The Temple Square was within walking distance of our hotel, so we opted not to take a formal tour. Besides, all you have to do is walk into the visitor center and ask for a tour (available in something like 125 languages). We got two of the Mormon sisters that were doing their mission. One was from Taiwan and one from Hong Kong. The tour included the gardens, outside view of the Temple, Tabernacle, and assembly hall (old church).
The Tabernacle is amazing. It was built in the mid-1800’s with a free standing domed roof. The overall length must be around 200 feet. As you’ve probably heard, the acoustics are great. Our guide went up to the podium and did the demo pin drop. They drop the pin on a hollow box, but it’s a good demo. What was really cool was her turning slowing around while talking. It didn’t matter which direction she was facing, you could easily hear her.
After the tour we spent a little time touring the gardens and then made our way back to the Tabernacle for an organ recital. The organ has over 11,000 pipes and the pipes are made of wood. That building is designed for an organ.
Next we headed up to the top of the Smith building for lunch. It was recommended by several people and did not disappoint. Once again large portions of excellent food. However, this time we were looking out the window with a view of the Temple.
After lunch Tammy decided to retest the beds in the hotel while I spent some more time at the visitor center. I finally got Tammy up around 7pm for a walk around town. Now here is where it became weird. We didn’t eat anything. I guess it’s not too weird. We did take advantage of the breakfast buffet the next morning.
We’re now waiting for the shuttle to take us to the airport. In all it was an excellent trip to several places we had on our bucket list (Mount Rushmore, Crazy Horse), and we got to see many other places we would have missed if we’d done it ourselves (Museums at Cody, float trip in Jackson, U-cross dude ranch). It was also a lot of fun to get to know some of our neighbors better.